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European Sleeper Trains

February 12, 2016 by Alice 2 Comments

Night Train
Night Train

European sleeper trains are making a big come back and you can now use them for everything from time saving business travel and simple low carbon family holidays in the sun or on the ski slopes to border busting, flight free European adventures.

It's all very exciting but before we rush to book this year's holiday by night train we need to get real. The modern European sleepers are not - for the most part - Orient Express style luxury and different routes are going to appeal most to different travellers.

So to help you find your ideal night train, I've put together this guide to the best European sleeper routes with honest appraisals of the pros and cons of each route and shared tips from years of sleeper travel on how to make to the most of the new night train network.

Table of Contents

  • Sleeper Train Travel Tips
    • Personal Priorities
    • Couchettes & Cabins
    • Booking Windows
    • Booking Alerts
    • Things Go Wrong
  • Best European Sleepers
    • Cornish Night Riviera
    • The Highlander
    • Paris To Nice
    • Paris To Spanish Border
    • Briancon Ski Train
    • Turin to Naples
    • Milan To Sicily
    • Brussels To Berlin
    • Brussels To Vienna
    • Brussels to Milan
    • Berlin To Stockholm
    • Istria : Budapest To Croatia
    • Adria : Budapest To Croatia
    • Ister Express : Transylvania
    • Bosphor Express : Istanbul

Sleeper Train Travel Tips

Personal Priorities

Before you book your sleeper train you must identify your travel priorities. Night trains can deliver on all of the following but no routes or tickets can deliver on all of them :

  1. Price
  2. Comfort
  3. Time Saving
  4. Stunning Scenery
  5. Relaxation
  6. Meeting Travellers
  7. Privacy
  8. Reliability

Work out what is most important to you and choose routes and tickets appropriately to avoid disappointment.

Couchettes & Cabins

Most sleeper trains offer a mixture of :

  1. Seats - of varying comfort
  2. Couchettes - effectively the equivalent of a shared dorm
  3. Cabins - private for your travel group with some cabins including ensuite loos & showers.

More comfortable seats and cheaper mini cabins are appearing on more routes but some sleeper trains still have old rolling stock. If you are a sensitive sleeper look out for routes e.g. Nightjet, Milan-Sicily or the Highlander offering newer facilities.

For some of us the big delight of night trains is meeting other travellers and swapping stories whilst sharing a couchette compartment. For others nothing could be worse but the privacy of a private cabin can triple your price.

If you are travelling with kids it can be very cost effective to book a whole couchette compartment for up to 6 of you but you will need to book early.

Booking Windows

Most sleeper trains have shorter booking windows than flights so you can't always book your holiday as far in advance. Some routes connecting to the Eurostar have shorter windows than Eurostar so to get the best Eurostar price you may need to book in advance of your sleeper.

Booking Alerts

Some routes e.g. Paris to the south of France, book up very quickly once they open. So if you are tied to specific dates set up alerts on the SNCF site so you can get in there first!

Things Go Wrong

Things do go wrong on sleeper trains just as they do on flights. Trains get cancelled and sometimes only half the train turns up! You can't hunker down on a station as you can at an airport so do have a back up plan of budget hotels near the station in case needed.

Best European Sleepers

Cornish Night Riviera

The Cornish Night Riviera is the easiest sleeper train to start with if you've never travelled on a night train before. Simply board at 10.30 pm at London Paddington and wake up the next morning for breakfast in Penzance.

The Riviera is an old route - there's been a night train to Penzance since 1877 - and the carriages have been on the go since the 1980s so whilst you do get a properly made up bed and a basin in your cabin, the toilets are at the end of the carriage. There is a small lounge car serving snacks and breakfast but not an evening meal.

The Night Riviera stops at several stations in Cornwall before Penzance so you can easily connect to local trains for St Ives or Newquay. Or for an extra dollop of slow travel romance, connect to the Scillonian ferry for the tiny Scilly Isles sparkling in the Celtic Sea. The quay is just a 10 minutes stroll from Penzance station.

The Highlander

The Highlander - run by the Caledonian Sleeper - is another simple sleeper route if you are new to night trains. You can join the train mid-evening at London Euston or Birmingham with useful late departure on Fridays.

You'll wake up north of Edinburgh to enjoy breakfast looking out over some of Scotland's most breathtaking scenery on your way to Fort William, Inverness or Aberdeen. All three towns are gateways not only for exploring the Highlands but also for ferries to the Hebrides, Orkney and Shetland.

The Highlander is more expensive than the Riviera but has new rolling stock with fancier cabins some of which have ensuite loos and showers. There is a dining car which serves - from my experience - pretty good food for both dinner and breakfast but priority goes to those travelling in ensuite rooms.

Paris To Nice

The Paris to Nice sleeper can be a fun and pretty time efficient way to hit the south of France. It leaves from Paris Austerlitz around 9pm arriving in Nice around 9 the next morning having stopped at Marseille, Cannes, Antibes etc along the way. The 2.30 or 3.30 Eurostar departure from St Pancras gives you time to make the connection from Gare du Nord.

One honest downside of the route is the French carriages are not great. They sold off the better ones when previously closing routes and even the first class cabins are basic - no made up bed, no wash basin - and I have to say from doing this route 2 years ago not as clean as they could be!!

So if you are looking for golden age glamour this is not the right sleeper route but if you are looking for a reasonably priced alternative to budget airlines for a flight-free holiday in the south of France it is a good option.

I've also used the Nice sleeper to travel on to Genoa - cool if you like cities with a Naples vibe - and the Cinque Terre resorts from which you can easily get to Pisa, Lucca and Florence by train.

Paris To Spanish Border

The Paris to Cerbere night train is another good way to get a flight-free holiday on France's Med coast. It stops at Nimes, Montpelier, Perpignan and then all the holiday resorts beyond to Cerbere by the Spanish border. It is fun to board the train straight off the beach at little holiday spots like Collioure and the route does offer amazing national park scenery.

However, the route has the same downsides as Paris - Nice with old rolling stock and the change from Gare du Nord to Austerlitz which with small kids is best done by taxi.

Briancon Ski Train

Ski trains are fantastic fun for skiers of a certain age. Sadly there's no longer an overnight ski train directly from London but the Briancon night train runs from Paris to get you on the Serre Chevalier slopes air miles free the next morning.

The Briancon ski train leaves Paris Austerlitz between 8 and 9 pm so from London you need to get a Eurostar between 2.30 and 4pm to make the connection. The ski train offers 1st and 2nd class couchettes, seats and private cabins but these are pretty basic as on all the French night trains.

Turin to Naples

Back in the day you could get a night train directly from Calais to Naples. Sadly these trains are long gone but the Turin-Naples sleeper lets you go flight free to Naples from London via Paris.

There are 5 direct trains a day from Paris to Turin and with an early Eurostar you can be in Turin in time to catch one of the two night trains down to Naples. But to be honest it's more fun to stop off in Turin at least on the way - as its one of those ignored Italian cities which is well worth a mini break.

Milan To Sicily

The Sicily sleeper is one of the great sleeper experiences of Europe as the train is actually taken onto the ferry across the Strait of Messina. Once in Sicily it splits with part going to Syracuse and part to Palermo stopping at seaside resorts along the way.

It is a long journey; the train leaves Milan just after 8pm and only arrives in Palermo at near 5pm the next day. So this is not the sleeper route for those short on time but if you are all up for enjoying amazing Italian scenery from comfortable compartments - superior cabins offer ensuite showers - it is a route for you. Breakfast and snacks are served on the train but there is no dining car.

Brussels To Berlin

The Brussels-Berlin night train is operated by European Sleeper - an independent start-up - who are innovatively re-opening the big old routes that glued Europe together. The Brussels hub is much more useful than Paris when coming from London on the Eurostar as you don't change stations so can make tighter connections.

The Brussels-Berlin sleeper is a brilliant route for exploring not only Berlin and eastern Germany but also Poland, the Czech Republic and beyond as there are direct trains from Berlin to Warsaw, Gdansk, Krakow, Prague and more.

If you've got the time for a big journey, you can loop from the Berlin sleeper through Poland and down to Budapest via Slovakia before heading up to Bratislava and Vienna to get Nightjet's night train back to Brussels.

Brussels To Vienna

The Brussels-Vienna sleeper launched in 2020 was a game changer for European train travel as it reopened the grand cross-Europe over night routes.

Catching a midday Eurostar from St Pancras you will be in Vienna by 9 the next morning, ready to enjoy Austria's grand capital. But once you've filled up on Vienna the whole of Eastern Europe is sitting waiting for you.

Budapest and Bratislava are just a few hours further by train. Or if you're feeling adventurous you can strike out on another sleeper for the unspoiled glories of Transylvania (see below) or in the spirit of the old Orient Express head on for Istanbul (see below).

Brussels to Milan

Personally, I am super excited about the launch of the new Brussels-Milan sleeper in June 2026 which will connect with Eurostar trains from London. We will finally be able to whizz to Italy again, leaving mid afternoon and waking up in the Alps.

The new train will be run by European Sleeper who also run the Brussels to Berlin train. They use fairly old carriages but have smartened them up and unlike SNCF offer made up beds in cabins and basins in some.

The European Sleeper company are also planning to launch a Brussels to Barcelona train in 2027 but currently there are no sleeper trains running into Spain or domestically.

Berlin To Stockholm

If you head out to Berlin on the sleeper from Brussels you can - once you're done exploring northern Germany - head up to Scandinavia on the Snalltaget which stops at Copenhagen before reaching Stockholm at midday.

The service is again run by an independent company and the trains have a pretty youthful vibe. You can book either seats or couchettes but you can book out all 6 couchettes as a private compartment.

The train does have a dining car but only for dinner travelling to Berlin and breakfast heading to Stockholm. The train doesn't run in winter.

Istria : Budapest To Croatia

There's been lots of excitement about Europe's new night trains but some of the best sleeper routes are actually those that never went away. The Istria night train from Budapest to Ljubljana, Slovenia and Rijeka on the north Croatian coast is a great example.

If you've been inter-railing around eastern Europe off the Brussels-Berlin or Brussels-Vienna train, it's a great way to nip down to the coast from Budapest. You can then carry on down the Croatian coast to Albania etc or even hop on a ferry to Venice.

The main train offers seating, couchettes and private cabins some with ensuite toilets and showers. There's also a Retro Istria train in the summer with old rolling stock from the 1970s and no air-con or charging points but good old fashioned made up beds

Adria : Budapest To Croatia

The Adria Express is another summer only night train route that goes all the way from Budapest to Split in southern Croatia enjoying truly stunning scenery along the way.

The train has seating, couchettes and private cabins and a proper old fashioned dining car serving full dinner, late night drinks and breakfast!!

Both the Istria and the Adria routes are pet and bicycle friendly.

Ister Express : Transylvania

The Ister Express is a night train route for the more adventurous. We're not talking luxury sleeper travel with a fancy dining car but instead a chance to hike in some of Europe's most stunning and unspoilt - watch out for the bears!! - mountain country in Transylvania in Romania

The Ister leaves Budapest Keleti just after 7pm. Any of the stops between Sibiu (5.50 am) and Brasov (9 am) are possible bases for exploring the mountains, Dracula's castle and much, much more.

Bosphor Express : Istanbul

The penultimate European sleeper is pretty hard core. The journey is almost 20 hours. There's no restaurant car & no snack bar. You can't book online. And unfortunately it's not accessible for wheelchairs or bikes.

But the Bosphor Express does take you all the way to Istanbul!!

So if you want to go the whole way flight free on night trains from London to Istanbul you can take :

  • Eurostar : St Pancras to Brussels
  • Nightjet : Brussels to Vienna
  • Dacia : Vienna to Bucharest
  • Bosphor : for final leg to Turkey.

This is real European train travel seeing Europe for itself, not flying over it.

I do hope you found this post helpful and have a great time exploring Europe by night train. Any questions at all do shout.

Original image source: Oleksii Leonov

Boutique Hotels In Holland

February 10, 2016 by Alice Leave a Comment

Holland's pretty towns and cool cities are full of great little boutique hotels that are perfect for weekend breaks. And I have for you here a guide to the best boutique hotels in 10 of the loveliest destinations - beyond Amsterdam - for mini-breaks in Holland by train.

You'll find everything from luxury style and characterful canal-side lofts to cool urban design. And the hotels are all handy by foot and public transport for both train stations and not-to-be-missed sites.

So if you are planning a quick get away or to tour Holland by train do check out these picks.

And for more tips read my guide to Weekend Breaks In Holland By Eurostar

Table of Contents

  • Rotterdam
  • Delft
  • Den Haag
  • Leiden
  • Eindhoven
  • Middelburg
  • Zwolle
  • Dordrecht
  • Breda
  • Haarlem

Rotterdam

Holland's old port of Rotterdam has been regenerated and is buzzing with new architecture and design hotels in the central districts between Rotterdam Centraal station and the striking Erasmus bridge.

  • Hotel Light : a youthfully, cool great value hotel close to the museums.
  • Super Nova : a super stylish "non-hotel" covering a range of budgets.
  • Hotel Mainport : a big 5 star design, hotel in the harbour near Erasmus bridge.
  • Hotel James : a 3 star design hotel with some good value rooms
  • Roommate Bruno : just over Erasmus bridge, part of a Spanish chain of bold, boutique design hotels across European cities
  • Sudemar Boat: stay on a traditional Dutch sailing boat moored close to museums, Markt Hal, the Erasums bridge & metro stops.
  • Hotel Santa Maria : not at all grand but characterful and exceptionally good value close to the major museums.

Delft

The key things to see in pretty, little Delft are all within 20 minutes walk of each other and within 10 or so minutes of the station :

  • Johannes : bright lofts above a fun cafe.
  • Hotel Arsenaal : a cool but characterful hotel in the old Delft Arsenal.
  • Casa Julia : simple, beautifully light rooms in a very good value B&B just a few hundred metres from Royal Delft.

Den Haag

These boutique hotels are all within 20 minutes walk of Den Haag Centraal station around the Hojvijver pond in the centre of Den Haag. The hotels are all just minutes from tram stops direct from Centraal station :

  • De Salon Van Fagel : spacious rooms in this small boutique hotel, some with private roof terrace and garden.
  • t' Goude Hoft : over 400 years old Den Haag's oldest inn is primarily a restaurant but also some stylish boutique rooms.
  • Park Hotel : a central hotel with a range of rooms from singles to junior suites and a large garden.
  • Paleis : 20 traditionally styled, reasonably priced rooms.
  • Bacan : a simple, tiny B&B less than 5 minutes from the Hofvijver.
  • Des Indes : den Haag's landmark grand old hotel hardly counts as boutique but is worth knowing about as backup.

Leiden

These boutique hotels and B&Bs are all within 10 minutes walk of Leiden's many world class museums and 20 minutes from Leiden station, from which there is a good bus service :

  • Huys Van Leyden : traditional but characterful luxury styling.
  • De Barones Van Leyden : sister hotel a few 100 metres away.
  • Ex Libris : 8 bright rooms in the midst of the museums.
  • NR22 : simple but charming B&B with a cool loft room.
  • Steenhof Suites : 14 luxury suites in two beautiful old canal houses.

Eindhoven

If you're after Dutch urban and modernist design rather than pretty canal side strolls, Eindhoven is the place to go and these boutique hotels capture the Eindhoven vibe :

  • Kazerne : stunningly designed, (if expensive), boutique hotel suites in a design exhibition space with achingly cool restaurants and bars.
  • Marienhag Hotel : a good value boutique design hotel innovatively built into old abbey buildings.
  • Hotel Match : bold, eclectic, industrial chic styling in the heart of the city.

Middelburg

Little Middleburg is tucked away in Zeeland but has some fantastic little boutique hotels which make a wonderful base for exploring the dunes and dikes of the Dutch coast :

  • Roosevelt : a beautifully converted hotel opposite the Abbey with individually designed rooms that can be good value. You can bring your own bike or hire one.
  • Loskade 45 : simple, bright rooms in a small family run boutique hotel with a brasserie serving organic food.
  • Logement t'Oude Bierhuys : a little coffee house and cafe with rooms including an adorable one bedroom "house" in a courtyard.
  • Poorthuys : a smart little B&B in an old Doctor's house in the centre of Middleburg.

Zwolle

Head to Zwolle, an old Hanseatic league town east of Amsterdam, for amazing food. These hotels are all within 20 minutes walk of the station:

  • De Librije : one of the world's best restaurants with gorgeous rooms and suites.
  • De Pelsertoren : cool styling in a historic tower.
  • Oldenburg : simple good value near the museum.
  • Grand Hotel Ter Borch : part of a small Dutch luxury hotel chain

Dordrecht

Holland's oldest city, Dordrecht is a wonderful place to really explore the Dutch waterways. You can even get there by water bus from Rotterdam and these boutique places are all about the water :

  • Villa Augustus : an uber cool hotel & restaurant in an old water tower with an amazing tower top, lantern room, secret garden room and floating rooms on the water.
  • Ecolodge : these floating rooms are in the Biesbosch national park which you can reach by boat from Dordrecht and then canoe around.

Breda

Home of one of Europe's largest and oldest jazz festivals, Breda isn't awash with independent boutique hotels but if you're there for the festival try ...

  • Hotel Nassau : striking rooms, with some big views in an old converted church.
  • Bliss Boutique Hotel : luxury suites in the centre of town.

Haarlem

Haarlem is a lovely, relaxed town just outside Amsterdam that makes a perfect base for exploring both the capital, the coast and pretty towns north of Amsterdam and has some very attractive boutique hotels within an easy walk of the station.

  • Staats Hotel : a beautifully styled boutique hotel with restaurant just a few minutes from Haarlem station.
  • Hotel ML : another individually styled boutique hotel with attached restaurant just off Haarlem's market square.
  • Boutique Hotel Brass : a range of 17 attractive suites, (including some small, very affordable ones), in central Haarlem.
  • Hotel Malts : a small characterful B&B in an old building in the centre of Haarlem

If you really want to chill for the weekend and just potter around Haarlem's beautiful canal side museums and cycle across the dunes to the beach you should also check out the lovely 't Vosje Boutique Hotel a 15 minute cycle from the station.

So there you go, a list of the best independent boutique hotels across Holland that are perfect for weekends away by Eurostar.

Original image sources : canal side, windmill, houses.

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